Lessons From a Developing Democracy: Police, Protests, Prisons, and Public Libraries

Following Mongolia’s break from the Soviet Union in 1990, the country transitioned to a free market democracy. Within a year of this transition the country’s parliament signed and ratified numerous human rights treaties including the Convention on the Rights of the Child (CRC) and the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (ICCPR). These treaties and others laid the foundation for the drafting of their national constitution in 1992. Among Mongolia’s other unique qualities is its constitution – the preamble of which explicitly names human rights as one of the government’s top priorities: “We, the people of Mongolia…cherishing human rights and freedoms…hereby proclaim the constitution of Mongolia…” From there, three articles specifically enumerate human rights protections related to various treaties to which the country has committed itself. To date, Mongolia has ratified 29 international human rights treaties. The United States of America, by comparison, has ratified only six. A Human Rights Commission that operates independently from the government and is in full compliance with United Nations' standards monitors the implementation of these treaties. This commission annually holds a “human rights open day” to promote implementation standards, raise awareness about human rights, train public officials and receive complaints from citizens.

Although Mongolia has laid a foundation for the development of a truly free and functioning democracy, the country is certainly not without its problems – however, where Mongolia has succeeded and continues to progress are equally as important. As the films below reveal human rights issues realted to freedom of assembly (Article 20 UDHR), the United Nation's Convention on the Rights of the Child (CRC), and freedom of information (Article 19 UDHR) are being widely discussed within Mongolia as it continues its transformation.

The first film, “Policing in Mongolia”, outlines an area in which Mongolia is perhaps most threatened. According to a recent public opinion poll, 49% of Mongolians believe the Judiciary to be “corrupt” and to hold nearly the lowest level of public trust. During our conversations with activists and Mongolian citizens we found that the police were frequently referenced as a dangerous and threatening force. In 2008, this tension came to a head following the parliamentary elections in a rebellion known as “July 1”.

(Music by: Quiza, "Zuud"; Tenuun Ft. Quiza, "1 Sariin 7") 

Although the July 1 rebellion ended with murders and mass arrests, the spirit of protest in the country was not derailed. On the contrary, protest and demonstrations have only increased. Fortunately, the July 1 incident also brought to the forefront a weakness in Mongolia’s government and mass trainings have since been ordered for police. Policing continues to be an issue, but since the rebellion of July 1 there has not been an incident as tragic and unjust.

One of the most active organizing bodies in Ulaanbaatar (the Capitol City of Mongolia) is the Trade Union (CMTU). As the film below summarizes, this body is committed to protecting working people and their families. What was most inspiring about witnessing these demonstrations during our time in Ulaanbaatar was the fact that not only were the people protesting (mind you outside in -10 degree weather), but the government was listening.

(Muisc by: Live performance by Toto, recorded)

The CMTU is one of the most active organizations - in part because economic issues are of increasing importance to the people of Mongolia. Since the fall of the Soviet Union the number of families living in poverty has increased dramatically. The social safety net, although still larger in Mongolia than elsewhere (with 20% of the budget going toward health, education and the protection of children) is still far below what existed during the time of Soviet influence. Graduation rates have plummeted and currently (with nearly half of the population being under the age of 18) nearly a third of these youth are living with families who survive on less than $0.68 a day. Additionally, Mongolia’s mass underground sewer system (because of extreme winter weather - with lows often reaching - 50) is A home to an estimated 1000 homeless youth on a daily basis. This rise in poverty has coincided with a rise in juvenile crime. Although Mongolia is facing a crisis of poverty and is able to provide few opportunities for its youth, it has -  by no means, given up on its children. In comparison to the United States which annually transfers 200,000 youth to the adult criminal justice system, Mongolia transfers none.

(Muisc by: Live performance by Toto, recorded)

While, Mongolia’s prison system in no way ideal and is in the middle of large-scale transformation to truly meet the standards of the human rights treaties they have ratified,  the Government has  opened itself  to the influence of many Non Governmental Organizations (NGOs). This spirit of transformation is also fueled by the development of a public library system and gradual movement toward a more open and honest public information system. Though we in the United States often discuss public libraries as “obsolete” and fewer and fewer of us possess a library card, those working to develop a public library system in Mongolia remind us what many of our United States citizens and leaders have adamantly declared in the past:

Libraries are…essential to the functioning of a democratic society…libraries are the greatest symbol of the freedom of the mind.

 – Franklin D. Roosevelt.

(Muisc by: Live performance by Toto, recorded)

The Land of Big Sky: A Week in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

And so the Trans-Siberian railroad trip has begun! First stop, Mongolia!

Fortunately, with enough advanced planning, we were able to get hard-sleeper tickets for our 27 hour trip to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. This train ride was rather uneventful with the exception of what can be considered - only in retrospect -  funny. Lesson learned: At the border crossing between China and Mongolia if  you exit the train you will have to remain at the station for several hours.  This small (but important) fact had alluded us.  Unfortunately, as the train pulled away, Kelly found herself locked in a nearly empty station in only her long underwear and a pair of slippers,  holding duty-free snacks and our last remaining yuen (because her passport had been taken by customs for processing). After many frantic moments using universal hand signals while trying to relay "I am supposed to be on that train/My friend was left at the station", we learned that Mongolia and China use different tracks, which requires all of the train's wheels to be replaced at the border crossing. Once the wheels are changed, the train rolls back to the station where duty free shoppers who had exited the train are allowed to reboard.

We made it to Ulaanbaatar - and were greeted by highs of -10 and lows of -45. Never have we experienced this type of cold and we quickly learned the phrase "extreme tourism" to describe our ventures around the city. We were able to spend only 10-15 minutes outside before we had frozen toes and fingers and feelings of frostbite in our faces - even when it was entirely covered.  Our host in Mongolia taught us that at the beginning of January, Mongolian's begin to measure weeks in 9 day stretches - each colder than the last. The nine day stretch in which we were in Mongolia was the 4th stretch and the coldest. However, he also taught us "Cold is not a problem for us.  We are happy to feel that human;  the nature is our God!"

In the background of this photo is Ulaanbaatar's Parliament building. Sitting on the steps of Parliament is Mongolia's main man, Chinggis Khaan (in the west known as Genghis Khaan). Although he is often regarded as a bloodthirsty barbarian because of his mass conquests across Asia (at one time controlling the entire region from modern day Europe to the Pacific Ocean), in Mongolia he is a national hero. Opinion of Chinggis Khaan is changing around the world as more is learned about his diplomacy. In addition to being a skilled warrior, he is credited with creating Mongolia's first written law and the first form of written script. As for ruling his people, he allowed religious freedom - a rarity at the time. He was voted by both Time Magazine and the Washington Post to be the "Man of the Millenium."

We were incredibly lucky to befriend Begzsuren Jamsranjav HarUhert and his wonderful family. They hosted us at their lovely home in the Ger District of Ulaanbaatar. In the US we know Gers as "yurts". In Mongolia, Gers are a very traditional form of housing and are the norm in the countryside where the people still live nomadically. Ulaanbaatar did not move from nomadic culture until about 300 years ago. 

When in doubt and stumped by a language barrier, always go with Michael Jackson...

From the warmth of their Ger, we learned a great deal about Ulaanbaatar. We compiled a short film about the Ger District, Mongolian food, music and dancing....

(Special Thanks to Mungulung, Gaadmaa, Menojin and Toto for their performances)

We had a lot to learn from Begz and his family. During our time in Mongolia, we tried our best to assist with some of the daily household chores, though we were quick to learn that our lifestyle and theirs are vastly different.  One afternoon we accompnied Begz up to the mountain to help feed the cows. Begz and his family rely on the cows for milk (a huge staple of the Mongolian diet) and, eventually, for meat. 

On Saturday, we attended the daily Buddhist prayer service at the Gandan Monastery. The predominant religion in Mongolia is Tibetan Buddhism. The Gandan is one of the only monasteries to escape the communist purges of the 1930s. Josef Stalin ordered the destruction of all temples and in the process over 15,000 Lamas were killed. . In addition to photos, we were able to capture a small amount of footage of a  service in one of the many temples in the Monastery.

Buddhist prayer wheels surround the Gandan Monastery...

As do pigeons....

We also had the privilege to meet with several human rights workers fighting to improve issues that are fundamental to Mongolia's success as a developing democracy:  the right to protest the government, policing, prisons and access to public libraries. In the next several days we will be posting a four part video series on human rights in Mongolia.  

"Help, I Don't Want to Die - Please Don't Kill Me": Capital Punishment in Asia

According to the United Nations, as of 2008, 141 countries had abolished the death penalty. Only 56 countries still allow the death penalty; however, of those that still allow it, only 18 actually performed executions in 2009. In the countries where the death penalty has been abolished, there is no evidence to suggest that crime rates raised or lowered following abolition - it simply had no impact on criminal acitivity.

Huge strides to end the death penalty have been occurring across Asia over the last several years. South Korea has been execution free for 10 years. On January 1, 2011 Russia's Constitutional Court ordered a stop to all executions. Most recently,  on January 5 of this year, after the President of Mongolia declared a moratorium on executions in 2010, the Mongolian Parliament ratified the second optional provision of the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights. This protocol instructs the ratifying country to cease all executions and take the necessary steps to fully abolish the death penalty.

Although the world is moving away from the death penalty, it is estimated that China performed over 5000 executions in 2009. As in the United States, the vast majority of people facing execution in Asia are poor and cannot afford proper legal representation.

Fortunately, in 2007, China instituted a sentencing option called the 'sinhuan' which requires that all death penalty cases go to the Supreme Court for review before an execution is carried out. This order has cut the number of executions in half. Further, in March of 2007, the head of the Chinese delegation to the Human Rights Council stated, "we are seeking to limit the application of the death penalty in China...I am confident that with the development and progress in my country, the application of the death penalty will be further reduced and it will finally be abolished".

Although President Barrack Obama has stated that he believes the death penalty is appropriate in certain cases, he has also acknowledged the fact that the criminal justice system in the United States is broken and applied unfairly. To date, neither China or the United States have ratified the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (ICCPR) or any of its optional protocols.

The main provisions of the ICCPR also order that no child shall be sentenced to life without the possibility of parole.

Forced Labor Migration and Human Trafficking in Asia

Although Hong Kong and Mongolia abide by international human rights law and do not sentence their children to die in prison, human rights issues still abound across the region. It is estimated that two-thirds of the world’s most economically disadvantaged people live in Asia. Extreme poverty and a lack of educational and employment opportunities at home have lead to a crisis of forced labor migration and human trafficking across the region. Article 23 of The Universal Declaration of Human Rights, as well as the “Convention on the Protection of all Migrant Workers” and the "United Nations Convention on Transnational Organized Crime" -  both signed and ratified by the United Nations, expressly forbid the exploitation of migrant workers and trafficking in persons; however, discrimination against migrant workers is still rampant in Hong Kong and the Southeast Asia region continues to be the largest source of trafficked persons. It is estimated that 800,000 people are trafficked annually – nearly 20,000 of them into the United States alone. This film features three organizations fighting to protect the economically disadvantaged and battle the root causes of these human rights abuses.

"Standing Room Only": Guilin to Beijing in 28 Hours

Although we consider ourselves well educated and aware of international happenings, somehow we missed the fact that during Spring Festival (AKA Chinese New Year) over 3 billion people will take domestic Chinese trains. Sit with that fact for a moment...This means that nearly half the world is taking trains during the month of January... well... 3 billion people and two very naive travelers from Colorado. This statistic became very real for us as we attempted to buy train tickets from Guilin, China to Beijing. Here is a photo of just what that ticket purchasing crowd looked like...

After standing in line for about an hour, Kelly made it to the ticket counter and was informed that all tickets for Beijing had been sold out for over two weeks and that the only tickets available would be "standing room only". These tickets are exactly as described. Each domestic Chinese train has 4 classes: Soft Sleeper, Hard Sleeper, Seats and Standing. The car with seats has a capacity of 144: 100 seats and room for 44 people to stand.

Although we could not completely capture for you just how crowded this is, I think Kelly's face says a lot...

This photo of Kelly was taken in the small corner we were able to occupy during the trip. We received sage advice that we will gladly pass on to anyone who is silly enough to travel during this overly crowded Chinese holiday period: 1) arrive at the station at least 3 hours early;  2) try to get as close to the gates where they let you board as possible;  3) as soon as the woman sounds the horn alert that it is time to board the train -  RUN.  By "run", we seriously mean run. You are racing for a place in the train car against all of these people:

After winning the race and being the first to make it to our car, we found a small cubby where we could set down our packs.  We remained in this cubby for 28 hours.

Fortunately, during the three days prior to our trip, though we were told the horror stories about just how tough this trip would be, we were distracted by the magnificent and other-worldly countryside of Xing Pin, China (a small village just outside the metropolis of Guilin). During our first day in this region, we were befriended by a wonderful man who told us to call him "CP" (after he took sympathy on our pitiful pronunciation of Chinese surnames). CP invited us to join him for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At breakfast,  for the first time in our lives, we tasted chicken's feet. Again naive, we assumed this would be one of the most adventurous things we would eat on our trip. By the end of that day, we had consumed two different types of boiled animal's blood (very good for the lungs, by the way). We also enjoyed other parts of  lamb and pig.

Chicken's Feet

Boiled lamb's blood

Boiled pig's blood

Pre-boiled pig's liver, intestine and flank.

We washed it all down with several rounds of traditional chinese tea.

Our gracious hosts: Mr. Liu, CP, Mr. Sun and the Colonel.

After our day of enjoying delicacies, we took a bamboo raft up the Li river where we spent a few days between Xing Pin and a small fishing village. 

 View from the roof of our Hostel, "This Old Place"(rough translation).

 The lovely motto of "This Old Place" Hostel.

 We left our mark...(Bottom right)

 A photo from our hike to the fishing village. 

Xing Pin has  -without a doubt, the most beautiful and picturesque scenery anywhere in the world. 

Chris could not resist.

After our long hike and 3 weeks of traveling through Asia, we craved a little taste of home...Although, we later learned we were enjoying our first taste of dog meat (sorry, Elbert). 

A few days on this remarkable countryside and it was time to take the long haul to Beijing...We have already detailed that adventure. Unfortunately, because of the crazy travel period, we were only able to spend a few days in Beijing, but we tried to fit in as much as possible, including:

A flag lowering ceremony at Tiananmen Square...

with no shortage of security surveillance;

 A visit to the People's Palace;...

And, of course, Peking Duck.

Although the duck was savory, our favorite part of the trip to Beijing was our overnight trek on The Great Wall.  Initially, we simply considered The Wall a "must see" and an awesome hiking adventure. However, by the time we left we had learned that The Great Wall is a symbolic parallel to the theme of our trip:  Stretching 5500 miles and dating back over 2000 years, the wall was built substantially by political prisoners.

 We chose the more secluded section of Huanghuacheng Great Wall because it is not controlled by the government, but is instead controlled by the people of the local village which makes it less crowded (we saw only three people during our entire stay).

 Sections of the wall are incredibly steep.

Our campsite.

Via foot, hitchhiking and bus, we made our way back to Beijing. Our plans with our local couchsurfer fell through after we got a bit lost on the subway, so we spent a chilly evening in a local train station. We treated ourselves to a McDonald's breakfast, our first in Asia.

Because we met so many amazing human rights workers in East Asia, we decided to compile a couple short films about the biggest human rights issues currently facing the region.  We will post those films in the next couple of days. While we are in Mongolia we will be meeting with a local artist who promotes human rights through his art.  We are very excited to learn more about his work and the issues currently being addressed in Central Asia.